Varanasi tends to tickle with your emotions, and as such having an exceptionally comfortable retreat to return to at night is, we feel, pretty important. Nadesar is a small ten-bedroom boutique hotel and set within mango orchards and jasmine fields, just away from the bustling heart of the city. We actually do not know the exact history of the palace, but know that it was used by the East India Company and in 1835 was renovated before being taken over by the Maharaja of Benares in the late 19th century. It welcomed high profile visitors since then including the Prince of Wales (later George V) and Lord Mountbatten to name but two. The hotel has been lovingly restored by Taj Hotels, bringing it into a collection that also contains some of the best palace hotels in India such as the Lake Palace, Rambagh Palace and Umaid Bhawan. The same level of detail and lavishness was used in the decoration, installing four-poster beds, antique furniture and modern en-suite bathrooms complete with roll-top bathtubs. There is also a superb spa, pool and two superb restaurants.