Ahilya Fort

For those in the know, Ahilya is the place to escape it all in India. It is the only form of accommodation in the small town of Maheshwar, or for miles around for that matter. It dates from the 18th century and is the ancestral home of the Holkar family, the Maharajas of the Indore region. It rises up from the banks of India’s second holiest rivers, the Narmada, and the views from the battlements, especially at sunset, are divine. You host is Prince Shivaji Rao Holkar, who is fantastic in creating a house-party atmosphere. He gets gets together for pre-dinner drinks on the terrace overlooking the river and the stories start to flow. Guests move to tables set up around the fort, and all sit together, feasting on the freshest of local Indian cuisine washed down by complimentary alcohol. The rooms are slightly simply furnished, but are more than comfortable with en-suite bathrooms. Do try to upgrade to the suites, which have views out over the river. You will pretty much be the only tourists in the region, and just walking through the unspoilt town of Maheshwar is a delight. Longer day trips to Mandu or Omkareshwar is certainly worthwhile. There is a delightful pool in the grounds, as well as many books and crannies from where you can pick up a good book. We suggest having at least three nights here, but you could easily spend a week. Many return, and at Millis Potter, we do!